Italy

The stolen bucket of Bologna, Italy

Torre della Ghirlandina

The bell tower in Modena was built in 1179 and is attached to the Modena cathedral by two arches. Make a reservation to climb the tower (you can’t go onto the exterior observatory) for the best views in the city.

Modena’s bell tower and Cathedral facade (photo: Brent Petersen)

From the late Middle Ages to the early Renaissance, the Ghibellines (supporters of the Holy Roman Empire) and the Guelphs (supporters of the Pope) were often in conflict which would occasionally erupt into war.

Modena was Ghibelline, while nearby Bologna was Guelph.

In the late 13th century, skirmishes between Modena and Bologna intensified. Then, in November 1325, the Bolognese attacked the Modena army. Modena was severely outmanned but still managed to rout the Bolognese, consolidating Ghibelline power in the region.

This battle, part of the War of the Oaken Bucket, has a great legend associated with it. Many people will tell you that the battle was ignited when a group of ne’er-do-wells from Modena stole a bucket from Bologna.

Sounds suspect, right? I mean, fighting a war over a bucket? C’mon.

Turns out that tale isn’t true.

But, the truth is even more ridiculous than the legend. Modena took the bucket from a well in Bologna after winning the battle; a spoil of war. I mean, who said “We just pummeled our enemy and now we’re going to really rub their noses in it by taking this bucket!” “Huzzah!”

Poet Alessandro Tassoni must’ve seen the absurdity of the situation. In 1622, he wrote the mock heroic poem “La secchia rapita” (The Stolen Bucket).

There is a replica of the bucket in the bell tower. The original is in the Camerino dei Confirmati room of city hall.

Getting to Modena

The closest airport to Modena is Bologna (BLQ). It’s a quick ride (less than 10 minutes) from the airport to Bologna Centrale station. Frequent trains from Bologna Centrale reach Modena in 20 minutes.

There’s also a shuttle that goes directly from the airport to several stops in Modena. The trip takes 45-60 minutes depending on where you are going in Modena. The shuttle is quite a bit more expensive than the train, but might be more convenient, especially if you’re traveling with a lot of luggage.

Driving will take about 35 minutes.

Alternatively, if you’re in Milan, the train to Modena takes less than 90 minutes. Driving adds 20 minutes to the trip.

About the Author

Brent Petersen is the Editor-in-Chief of Destination Eat Drink. He currently resides in Setubal, Portugal. Brent has written the novel “Truffle Hunt” (Eckhartz Press) and the short story collection “That Bird.” He’s also written dozens of foodie travel guides on Destination Eat Drink, including several in Italy,. Brent’s podcast, also called Destination Eat Drink, is available on all major podcasting platforms and is distributed by the Radio Misfits Podcast Network.

Brent

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