I just wanted a slab of Focaccia Barese. Hopefully, I won’t get roughed up.
I was standing in the street, patiently waiting my turn, as the toughest, meanest bouncer I’d ever seen stood guard at the door. And, just in case there is any question about Rino’s intentions, yes the bouncer’s name is Rino, there’s a large poster with his picture saying “Don’t make him angry.”
Was I waiting to get in the hottest new club in Las Vegas? Was I trying to weasel my way into an after party at the Oscars? No, I just wanted a slab of Focaccia Barese.
And the only thing standing between me and fluffy carb-tastic heaven is Rino.
So, I wait.
Finally, Rino calls my number and I am permitted entry to the most exclusive of Barese establishments, Panificio Santa Rita, a bakery serving up delicious Focaccia Barese.
Round discs of focaccia are topped with tomato and olives. That’s it, simple, carb-centric deliciousness. All you have to do is run the Rino gauntlet.
What makes this focaccia unique is that potato is often added to the flour, giving the bread a softer, some would say chewier, texture. Traditionally, Focaccia Barese is topped with tomato, often plum or cherry, and olives with the pits still inside. These days, however, other veggies are sometimes found topping fluffy rounds of focaccia like peppers and eggplant. Another version is topped with rosemary and sea salt.
While the experience at Santa Rita is one you won’t soon forget, and the Focaccia Barese is very good, it’s not my favorite.
That crown goes to Panificio Fiore. Seemingly just as busy as Santa Rita, there’s no scary bouncer lurking in the doorway. As a result, the scene is more chaotic. Work your way to the counter, resisting the urge to elbow the granny who just cut in front of you, and catch the eye of one of the overworked employees. Give them your order and soon enough you’ll have some of the most delicious street food ever!
There are no direct flights to Bari from North America. Connections from Rome (1 hour) and Milan (90 minutes) are quick and easy. From the airport, it’s a 30 minute ride on the slow train to Bari Centrale station.
Brent Petersen is the Editor-in-Chief of Destination Eat Drink. He currently resides in Setubal, Portugal. Brent has written the novel “Truffle Hunt” (Eckhartz Press) and the short story collection “That Bird.” He’s also written dozens of foodie travel guides on Destination Eat Drink, including one to Bari, Italy. Brent’s podcast, also called Destination Eat Drink, is available on all major podcasting platforms and is distributed by the Radio Misfits Podcast Network.
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