There’s a sweet wine in a town in Puglia, Italy. And It’s surprisingly hard to find.
Arriving in the Puglian town of Trani, I had one beverage-based mission. Find and sample the local sweet wine, Moscato di Trani.
Seemed pretty easy. After all, the wine is named after the town. They’ve gotta be pretty proud of it, right?
Wrong.
Moscato di Trani comes in two styles, dolce naturale, a sweet dessert wine, and Liquoroso, a fortified wine. In both cases, Moscato di Trani must be made from at least 85% Moscato Bianco, the most planted grape in the region.
Cafes in Italy (often called Snack Bars) sell espresso, pastries, and light meals. And, since this is Italy, they will also pour you a glass of wine. So, I popped in a promising looking cafe.
“Avete le Moscato di Trani?”
I’m met with a puzzled look and the shaking of the head.
After repeating this exchange in six or eight different places, I was thinking that my mission was futile.
Finally, pay dirt.
“Avete le Moscato di Trani?” I asked, knowing I would be disappointed with the answer yet again.
“Si.”
Expecting to be rejected yet again, I was halfway out the door before he could answer. “Wait. Really?”
The proprietor produced a bottle from behind the counter. Sure enough, it was Moscato di Trani. I asked for two glasses.
Sitting outside by the harbor, I basked in the glow of victory. The Moscato di Trani was sweet, yes, but also had some spice to it and a nuttiness. Quite good and I suspect it would be even more complex with some additional aging.
When I went in to pay, still riding my food find high, I was quickly brought back to earth.
Sixteen Euro for two tiny glasses at this run down snack bar?
Indeed, I had made the rookie mistake of not asking the price before ordering. And, this guy took full advantage.
This is a prime example of the “Tourist Tax.” That is, charging tourists more than locals or giving tourists less for their money knowing they are unlikely to complain or ever return. After all, the next sucker will be coming close behind.
Brent Petersen is the Editor-in-Chief of Destination Eat Drink. He currently resides in Setubal, Portugal. Brent has written the novel “Truffle Hunt” (Eckhartz Press) and the short story collection “That Bird.” He’s also written dozens of foodie travel guides on Destination Eat Drink, including one to Trani, Italy. Brent’s podcast, also called Destination Eat Drink, is available on all major podcasting platforms.
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