Ouriço pastry of Ericeira, Portugal

Ericeira is a traditional fishing village in Portugal that now shares with water with surfers who visit to ride the waves of Europe’s only World Surfing Reserve. When you visit, be sure to seek out the local pastry, called Ouriço. 

Ericeira

Being right on the Atlantic Ocean, Ericeira has been known for centuries for it’s bountiful seafood. 3,000 years ago, the Phoenicians established a trading post here. Later, Rome conquered the area and fished the waters.

In 2011, Ericeira was named the second World Surfing Reserve, after Malibu, California. It remains the the only WSR in Europe, meaning that there can be no development along this pristine marine area. Surfers come from all over the world to ride the legendary waves, which are at their best in the winter. To outfit the surfboarders, surf shops and surfing schools have sprung up all over the city.

Ouriços

Like most cities, towns, and villages in Portugal, Ericeira has its own special pastry. The Ouriço originated about 100 years ago at Casa das Cavacas (don’t look for it, it’s not there anymore). Luckily, almost every bakery in Ericeira has their own version of the sweet treat.

Strangely, Ouriço translates to Urchin. The little muffin shaped pastry doesn’t have the spines or taste of the tube-footed sea creature, nor does pastry resemble an urchin, but I guess that since we’re right on the ocean, the name is somehow locally appropriate.

Others say the name comes from the word ouriço-caixeiro (hedgehog) a reference to Phoenician colonization of Ericeira and the goddess Astarte who, apparently, liked the little creatures.

Ouriços are made with almond flour, sugar, eggs, and citrus zest. This makes them naturally gluten-free but celiacs should ask about any other flours that may have been added and possible cross-contamination.

The biggest difference between Ouriços is they way they’re baked. Longer baking times will yield a crispier more caramelized topping. Shorter baking times will give less crunch. Either way, the interior of the Ouriço should be rich and moist.

My favorite spot for Ouriços is Casa da Fernanda. The top is super crispy and caramelized. They also have the ideal spot right across from the ocean and sitting at a table outside is a delight. Casa Gama is another great place for Ouriços.

Getting to Ericeira

If you’re in Lisbon, Ericeira is the perfect day trip. It’s only 40 minutes by bus from the Campo Grande station. Make sure you check the schedule as there are others buses that go Ericeira from Campo Grande but they take the long way (90 minutes).

Depending on where you start in Lisbon, it’s about a 40 minute drive. There’s no train station in Ericeira.

The bus station is about a 20 minute downhill walk to town. Ericeira itself is very walkable with windy, cobblestone streets and some hills. If you want to visit the beaches, there are lots right in the city, but getting to Praia Ribeira d’Ilhas, the best surfing spot, is about a 40 minute walk. Better to take the beach bus which stops right at the beach.

About the Author

Brent Petersen is the Editor-in-Chief of Destination Eat Drink. He currently resides in Setubal, Portugal. Brent has written the novel “Truffle Hunt” (Eckhartz Press) and the short story collection “That Bird.” He’s also written dozens of foodie travel guides to cities around the world on Destination Eat Drink, including in-depth eating and drinking guides to cities in Portugal. Brent’s podcast, also called Destination Eat Drink, is available on all major podcasting platforms.