L’Aquila suffered a devasting blow when a 2009 earthquake severely damaged the city and killed over 300 people. But, L’Aquila is bouncing back and it’s clear the efforts to rebuild are paying off.
Cucina povera, known as “peasant food” or “kitchen of the poor”, is the idea that while some parts of Italy were traditionally impoverished, the cuisine was rich in flavor. Today, many delicious dishes come from the cucina povera tradition.
One of those is Pallotte cacio e ova. When the people of Abruzzo didn’t have meat, which was often, they would make these little meatball substitutes. Cheese and eggs are mixed with day old bread, garlic, parsley, salt, and pepper. Rolled into balls, the Pallotte cacio e ova is fried and served with tomato sauce. Hard to believe this simple dish is so delicious!
Taverna dei SaZi is my favorite place to get Pallotte cacio e ova. But, if you look on TripAdvisor, you might wonder why I recommend a place with so many one star reviews. Well, some people were turned off by the owner. He brusquely turns away people without reservations and doesn’t suffer fools. Frankly, I don’t blame him. He’s got a business to run and walk-ups sometimes won’t take no for an answer.
That said, if you’re thin-skinned you might look for another place. For me, I just make sure I reserve a table in advance. And, if you want to get on owner’s good side, ask him about Bruce Springsteen. He’s a huge fan.
There is no airport in L’Aquila. The closest one is Abruzzo Airport just outside Pescara. You can get to L’Aquila from Pescara in about 90 minutes by car or train.
While Pescara Airport doesn’t have many international flights, Rome’s Airport, FCO, has lots of direct flights to North America. There’s a direct bus to L’Aquila from FCO that takes about 2.5 hours. Driving shaves an hour off that.
Brent Petersen is the Editor-in-Chief of Destination Eat Drink. He currently resides in Setubal, Portugal. Brent has written the novel “Truffle Hunt” (Eckhartz Press) and the short story collection “That Bird.” He’s also written dozens of food and travel guides on Destination Eat Drink, including several in Italy. Brent’s podcast, also called Destination Eat Drink, is available on all major podcasting platforms.
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