One of the most gorgeous spots on the Mediterranean is also home to delicious Nicoise cuisine with dishes ranging from street food to the namesake salad and a local wine.
Nice’s most famous culinary export is the Salade Nicoise, now popular all over the world. However, version you get today is quite different than the original recipe.
First popularized in Nice in the 19th century, the original Salade Nicoise was simply sliced tomatoes, anchovies, and olive oil. Cheap and filling for the working class people who consumed the salad 150 years ago.
By the early 20th century other ingredients were added. Tomatoes and anchovies were still the base of the salad, but the addition of artichokes, black olives, and peppers gave the dish more interest. The dressing also changed from olive oil to a vinaigrette with herbs and shallots. It was only when lettuce, hard boiled eggs, and tuna were added that the Salade Nicoise became what we know today.
Still, there are lots of variations. It isn’t uncommon to see boiled potatoes and green beans, although adding these to a Salade Nicoise in Nice itself is generally frowned upon by purists. Beans and other raw veggies like cucumbers are sometimes included as well.
In the United States, Salade Nicoise was served with pimento-stuffed olives and dressed with mayonnaise, a combination that would make a Nicoise cringe. In fact, the debate about the correct ingredients and proper way to serve a Salade Nicoise is quite intense. Green beans or no green beans? Should the ingredients be tossed or composed? Should chefs who include potatoes in a Salade Nicoise be publicly shamed or jailed?
The Cercle de la Capelina d’Or attempts to answer these questions (except the last one) and many others by codifying Salade Nicoise and certifying places that meet their standards. Their salad allows for some veggies like artichokes, cucumbers, and peppers, but definitely not green beans and potatoes and only a bit a lettuce. Also, the dressing can have some vinegar, but only a drop or two!
Foodies might be surprised to find that canned tuna is used for most Salade Nicoise. In France, as well as much of Europe, canned fish is usually of very high quality, not the “Sorry Charlie” variety found in North America.
Salade Nicoise is found on menus all over Nice. One of the best spots is…
Nice Cote d’Azur Airport (NCE) has direct flights to most major cities in Europe as well several in North America, the Middle East, and northern Africa. A tram links the airport to the city center.
High speed trains connect Nice and Marseille (about 2.5 hours). A trip to Paris is almost 6 hours. However, this is expected to be reduced to under 4 hours when the LGV Provence-Alpes-Cote d’Azur line is completed (expected in 2035).
Brent Petersen is the Editor-in-Chief of Destination Eat Drink. He currently resides in Setubal, Portugal. Brent has written the novel “Truffle Hunt” (Eckhartz Press) and the short story collection “That Bird.” He’s also written dozens of foodie travel guides on France, including one to Nice. Brent’s podcast, also called Destination Eat Drink, is available on all major podcasting platforms.
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