Peniche is a lovely little city in the Oeaste region of Portugal, right on the Atlantic Ocean. The jewel of Peniche is Berlenga Island. About 6 miles from the mainland.
There are several ferry services that can shuttle you to Berlenga. Large boats tend to be more comfortable while small boats can be faster. There’s also all kinds of extras you can add on to your trip.
For example, the basic package is just a round trip to the island. That’s fine if you want to hike around the island, explore the fort, and maybe rent a kayak or go for a swim. The next step up is to add a cave package. For this, you’ll be shuttled onto a smaller boat and go in and out of a few caves and tunnels around the island. For me, this is a must-do activity when visiting Berlenga. For divers, some companies will offer snorkeling or scuba diving as part of your ticket.
The ferries depart from the harbor near the fort in Peniche. There are tons of operators with kiosks at the harbor landing. You can walk around and find the best one for your needs or book in advance online. We went on a roundtrip ferry ride and cave tour with Berlenga Live and I can definitely recommend them. The ride to the island was easy and scenic and the guides were entertaining and informative.
Once you arrive on Berlenga after the boat ride (30-45 minutes), it’s time to enjoy what the island has to offer.
There are several caves and tunnels to explore on Berlenga. If you rent a kayak, you will probably be able to access more caves and linger longer, but a boat tour allows you to see several in quick order. Not all caves are accessible all the time depending on the height of the tide and the choppiness of the water.
The highlight of a cave tour is the Furado Grande, a natural tunnel over 200 feet long. Emerging from the cave into the sunshine on the clear water is an amazing experience!
Elephant Rock, which kinda sorta resembles an elephant, is also of interest.
Constructed on the site of a former monastery in the 16th century, Fort of São João Baptista was the primary defense for Berlenga. In 1667, the Spanish attacked and destroyed the fort which was rebuilt and used as a prison. Later, in the 19th century, British troops were stationed at Fort of São João Baptista to assist the Portuguese in their fight against Napoleon’s army.
The fort itself, restored to its former glory in the 1950’s, is an irregular octagon shape. But, the most stunning feature of the fort is its location. Perched on a rock at the entrance to a harbor, the spectacle of the fort is jaw-dropping as you enter the harbor. Private boats anchor in the water and swimmers enjoy the clear water.
When you ascend the stone steps to the fort, you can clearly see the stone walkway that leads from the island to the fort. It truly looks like something out of a movie (or Game of Thrones).
Rustic accommodations are available at the fort, though you have to bring your own sheets and pillowcases.
From the fort, there’s only one way to go and that’s UP! An uneven stone staircase of 300 or so stairs (be sure to take breaks and look back at the incredible views) leads up to the lighthouse.
The Farol da Berlenga was completed in 1842 on the highest point of the island. The beacon was automated in 1985 but the station is still staffed, though the lighthouse workers’ families live on the mainland at the Cabo Carvoeiro Lighthouse. The lighthouse is occasionally open to the public.
From the lighthouse you can descend the other side of the hill to the main harbor where most boats pick you up for the return back to Peniche. There are a couple cafes here where you can grab a snack or a drink.
One last note on Berlenga Island. If you plan to go, make sure to check the weather first. Boats may not sail in rough weather. In addition, the island is out in the unprotected Atlantic and storms can batter Berlenga and make the seas rough. So, even if the boats are running, you might have an issue with seasickness. And, the footpaths are rough and worn with few guardrails. People with limited mobility will have a very difficult time on the island.
Brent Petersen is the Editor-in-Chief of Destination Eat Drink. He currently resides in Setubal, Portugal. Brent has written the novel Truffle Hunt (Eckhartz Press) and the short story collection That Bird. He’s also written dozens of foodie travel guides to cities around the world on Destination Eat Drink, including an in-depth eating and drinking guide to Portugal. Brent’s podcast, also called Destination Eat Drink, is available on all major podcasting platforms.
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