Though not nearly as famous as some other pastries in Portugal, Peniche has several excellent treats it calls its own. The best bakery in the city is Pastelaria Calé (2 locations) and they have all these excellent sugary snacks for sale.
If there is a single pastry that Peniche is known for, it’s the Ó de Peniche. Like many natas in Portugal, it’s made with eggs and sugar and almonds. But, there are a few things that make the Ó de Peniche unique.
First, the almonds are not ground as finely as most tarts in Portugal. Instead, you get little pieces of almond in your treat. I like it!
Second, the custard isn’t nearly as gooey and creamy as most natas. The filling of the Ó de Peniche is more caramelized, almost, but not quite, to the point of being like a pecan pie filling.
Lastly, the crust is more of a shortbread. While Pastel de Nata uses puff pastry and other tarts sometimes have a dry wafer-thin crust, the Ó de Peniche shortbread is moist, cakey, and delicious.
Bobbin Lace has been an important part of part of the culture of Peniche for over 400 years. While the men were out at sea filling their boats with fish, women made the intricate lace pieces using thread and bilros (bobbins).
Pastelaria Calé pays tribute to this tradition with milk chocolate bon bons made in the shape of the bobbins, calling them Bilros de Peniche.
Speaking of the tradition of lace making, Rendas Doces (sweet lace), has hand-piped sugar frosting with lace designs on top of a cookie. Supposedly, the base is made with seaweed, but it’s not salty or “sea-weedy” tasting.
Buses to Peniche regularly depart Lisbon’s Sete Rios station and take from 70 to 95 minutes depending on which one you take. The bus station is a short walk to the center of town. Be aware that if you take FlixBus, their schedule will not be displayed on the arrival/departure screens at the Peniche bus station.
Driving from Lisbon takes a little over an hour. There is no train service to Peniche.
Brent Petersen is the Editor-in-Chief of Destination Eat Drink. He currently resides in Setubal, Portugal. Brent has written the novel Truffle Hunt (Eckhartz Press) and the short story collection That Bird. He’s also written dozens of foodie travel guides to cities around the world on Destination Eat Drink, including an in-depth eating and drinking guide to Portugal. Brent’s podcast, also called Destination Eat Drink, is available on all major podcasting platforms.
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