Maybe the small painting discreetly displayed in a church in Logroño is by the master. Then again, maybe not.
Concathedral of Saint Mary
The Concatedral de Santa María de la Redonda de Logroño is unusual in that it is one of three co-cathedrals in Logroño (Calahorra and Santo Domingo de La Calzada). Because of its location on the Camino de Santiago, the city of Logroño and the cathedral enjoys an oversized prominence that it might not otherwise enjoy.
In the 17th century, Bishop Pedro González del Castillo had an additional chapel built in the cathedral and he was looking to fill it with artwork. So, he set out to acquire items on his trips to Rome.
One of the pieces he brought to Logroño is “The Crucifixion,” a painting on a wooden canvas which the bishop claimed was by the one and only Michelangelo. Surprisingly, the painting wasn’t given prominent placing in the church (perhaps because of it’s unsubstantiated provenance) until the second half of the 20th century when it was displayed in the ambulatory (walkway behind the high altar).
The painting itself is considered to be high quality. However, if it is indeed a work by Michelangelo, it would be one of his minor works, at best. Critics complain that the figure of Mary Magdalene seems shoehorned into the painting, ruining its symmetry.
Visiting the painting
Logroño is easy to get to from either Bilbao (1 hr 45 min by bus, 1 hr 25 min by car) or Donostia-San Sebastian (2 hr 15 min by bus, 1 hr 45 min by car). Once there, the church is in the middle of town. Logroño is also a foodie hotspot with one of the best concentrations of tapas bars in Spain.
I’ve heard people complain that the painting is difficult to find. However, I think that’s because they’re expecting a huge Michelangelo canvas. The painting is, in fact, rather small. To see it, just walk around behind the alter and look on the wall that is the back of the alter. There is a display and signs to guide you to the spot. “The Crucifixion” is behind glass and rather dark. To clearly see the painting, drop an Euro into the slot and it will be illuminated for a short while.
About the Author
Brent Petersen is the Editor-in-Chief of Destination Eat Drink. He currently resides in Setubal, Portugal. Brent has written the novel “Truffle Hunt” (Eckhartz Press) and the short story collection “That Bird.” He’s also written dozens of foodie travel guides to cities around the world on Destination Eat Drink, including in-depth eating and drinking guides in Spain to Madrid, Cordoba, Jerez, El Puerto de Santa Maria, and Cadiz. Brent’s podcast, also called Destination Eat Drink, is available on all major podcasting platforms.
