Cucina povera, known as “peasant food” or “kitchen of the poor”, is the idea that while some parts of Italy were traditionally impoverished, the cuisine was rich in flavor. Today, many delicious dishes come from the cucina povera tradition. One of my favorites is Pallotte cacio e ova.
Pallotte cacio e ova
When the people of Abruzzo didn’t have meat, which was often, they would make these little meatball substitutes. Cheese and eggs are mixed with day old bread, garlic, parsley, salt, and pepper. Rolled into balls, the Pallotte cacio e ova is fried and served with tomato sauce. Hard to believe this simple dish is so delicious!
My girlfriend, who’s family is from nearby Calabria region said her aunt used to make a very similar dish. As soon as she had a bite, it took her back to her childhood.
Today, many Cucina povera dishes have been elevated to haute cuisine. I’ve seen the humble Puglian dish of chickpeas and pasta served in Michelin recognized restaurants!
Taverna dei SaZi is my favorite place to get Pallotte cacio e ova. Located in the center of L’Aquila, this place is a gem. But, if you look on TripAdvisor, you might wonder why I recommend a place with so many one star reviews. Well, some people were turned off by the owner. He brusquely turns away people without reservations and doesn’t suffer fools. Frankly, I don’t blame him. He’s got a business to run and walk-ups sometimes won’t take no for an answer.
That said, if you’re thin-skinned you might look for another place. For me, I just make sure I reserve a table in advance. And, if you want to get on owner’s good side, ask him about Bruce Springsteen. He’s a huge fan.
How to get to L’Aquila, Italy
There is no airport in L’Aquila. The closest one is Abruzzo Airport just outside Pescara. You can get to L’Aquila from Pescara in about 90 minutes by car or train.
Since Pescara Airport doesn’t have many international flights, you might want to get to L’Aquila via Rome. FCO Airport has lots of direct flights to North America. There’s a direct bus to L’Aquila from FCO that takes about 2.5 hours. Driving shaves an hour off that.
About the Author
Brent Petersen is the Editor-in-Chief of Destination Eat Drink. He currently resides in Setubal, Portugal. Brent has written the novel “Truffle Hunt” (Eckhartz Press) and the short story collection “That Bird.” He’s also written dozens of foodie travel guides on Destination Eat Drink, including several in Italy. Brent’s podcast, also called Destination Eat Drink, is available on all major podcasting platforms.