Portugal’s Azores archipelago was formed by volcanic eruptions millions of years ago. Even today, molten rock, just below the surface, heats underground water. Thermal spas take advantage of this phenomenon, as do local chefs.
Food in a volcano
The most unique dish in the Azores is the Cozido das Furnas. Roughly translated to Cavern Stew, this bowl of roughly chopped meat and veggies is something truly unusual.
Near Furmas Lake each morning, cooks layer meat and local produce in steel buckets, lowering them into the super-hot vents heated with geothermal steam. The buckets are covered and remain underground for several hours until they are removed and taken back to the restaurant where hungry guests enjoy platters piled high with big chunks of meat and vegetables.
While this is a distinctive experience, let me offer a couple caveats. First, the portions are generally huge. At most places, one Cozido das Furnas could feed 2 people and then some. And second, I’m going to give it to you straight, the Cozido das Furnas is rather bland. I expected the long cooking time in a geothermal hole to impart some unique minerality to the dish, but that was not the case.
In addition, the food itself wasn’t well seasoned. I had to ask for salt and pepper just to get some semblance of flavor. C’mon chefs, the Azores are green and lush, add some herbs, some garlic, some spices, and you’d have something very special! For now, this is more of an experiential meal than a delicious one.
Terra Nostra Garden Hotel Restaurant and Caldeiras e Vulcões are two places where you can get your volcano meal.
Caldeiras
If you don’t want to have a Cozido das Furnas, you can still enjoy the unique geology of the area.
The city of Furnas on the Azorean island of Sao Miguel sits on a semi-active volcano which hasn’t erupted in about 10,000 years. However, the magma below the surface heats the ground water which is how the hot springs get their heat and minerals.
This heated magma boils water that bubbles up in the Caldeiras, small volcanic holes in the earth’s surface. These holes can be wet or dry, meaning you’ll see bubbling water in the wet ones, just steam in the dry ones.
There are a couple places to see the Caldeiras. Right in Furnas are several vents where the boiling water releases steam 30 feet in the air. It also smells faintly of rotten eggs.
The other spot is Fumarolas Lagoa das Furnas, right on Lake Furnas. Here is where the Cozido das Furnas is cooked.
If you want to see the Cozido das Furnas removed from their cooking hole, the best time to do so is midday. That’s when the hours long cooking process is done and pots are taken back to the restaurants.
There are also dry holes open to the public. You can put a pot of your own Cozido das Furnas in the ground and cook it. Remember, it takes 6-8 hours to finish cooking, so plan on spending the day. And, since you’re unlikely to have a giant pot in your carry on, places like Maria Pic-nic will make it for you, pot and all, ready to go in the hole.
Getting to Furnas
Sao Miguel is about a 5 1/2 hour flight from Boston, 2 1/2 hours from Lisbon. From the airport, or the main city of Ponta Delgada, it’s about a 45 minute drive to Furnas. A car is highly recommended as public transit outside of Ponta Delgada is spotty, at best.
About the Author
Brent Petersen is the Editor-in-Chief of Destination Eat Drink. He currently resides in Setubal, Portugal. Brent has written the novel Truffle Hunt (Eckhartz Press) and the short story collection That Bird. He’s also written dozens of foodie travel guides to cities around the world on Destination Eat Drink, including an in-depth eating and drinking guide to Portugal. Brent’s podcast, also called Destination Eat Drink, is available on all major podcasting platforms.
