Ovos Moles may be tiny, but they’re delicious! And, they have a tie to Portuguese royalty.
Ovos Moles origin story
The sweet little treats called Ovos Moles were invented by the nuns of the Mosteiro de Jesus in Aveiro, a Dominican convent built in 1461 by Papal decree. The monastery is famous because this is where Joana de Avis, Princess of Portugal, lived and worked as a nun (though she never took her final vows). Today, there’s a museum in the Mosteiro de Jesus in Aveiro.
Her father, King Afonso V, wanted to marry off Joana and consolidate his power. But Joana had a mind of her own and entered the convent, defying her powerful father. Joana lived out her life in the convent, dying in 1490. She was beatified in 1693.
Sometime, about 500 years ago, the nuns in the convent came up with the recipe for Ovos Moles. This was a common occurrence in Portugal where nuns often sold sweets to help finance the operation of the convent.
Many of the recipes were later sold to commercial bakeries when the religious orders were dissolved in the 1830’s.
Portugal pastries often got their start in religious orders. The most famous of these is Pastel de Natal which can trace its origins to the Jerónimos Monastery in Lisbon.
Making Ovos Moles
To make Ovos Moles, egg yolks and sugar are gently stirred together and heated in a copper pan. A dollop of the egg custard is placed in the center of a rice paper wrapper, similar to a communion wafer. Another rice paper wrapper is placed on top and the egg custard is sealed inside. The Ovos Moles is then shaped into pieces like shells, fish, and boats, representing Aveiro’s nautical. Oftentimes, the Ovos Moles are placed in a model boat, further reinforcing Aveiro’s connection to the sea. Ovos Moles are sometimes dipped in chocolate to create Ovos Moles Pretos.
For me, the rice paper casing can be too dry with an almost cardboard texture. That’s why I like the Ovos Moles to be dusted with powdered sugar to add a little moisture. Newly made Ovos Moles are also better than ones that have been sitting around for this exact reason.
Where to get Ovos Moles
These days, bakeries all over Portugal sell Ovos Moles. But, why not get one in Aveiro, the city where they were invented?
Every bakery in Aveiro sells Ovos Moles, some better than others. While I can’t claim to have tried every one, there are two that stand out, in my mind.
M1882 – Maria da Apresentação da Cruz makes terrific Ovos Moles with a super creamy egg custard. Compare them to the equally good Café a Barrica, which is just a 5 minute walk from M1882.
Getting to Aveiro
Aveiro doesn’t have an airport but it’s pretty easy to get there by train from Porto (1 hour) or Lisbon (2 hours 15 minutes). Buses are also frequent and cheaper than the train, though a little slower. Driving is also an option, of course.
About the Author
Brent Petersen is the Editor-in-Chief of Destination Eat Drink. He currently resides in Setubal, Portugal. Brent has written the novel “Truffle Hunt” (Eckhartz Press) and the short story collection “That Bird.” He’s also written dozens of foodie travel guides to cities around the world on Destination Eat Drink, including in-depth eating and drinking guides to cities in Portugal. Brent’s podcast, also called Destination Eat Drink, is available on all major podcasting platforms.
