One of Spain’s most historic cities is also one of the best foodie cities in the world.

A Short History

Pre-humans arrived in the region now known as Andalucía 1.4 million years ago. It wasn’t until 4500 BCE that humans started farming and settling permanently in the area. Around 3,000 years ago, the Phoenicians commanded present-day Seville. Roman armies defeated the Carthaginians in 206 BCE.

The Umayyad Caliphate resulted in the Islamic conquest of the Iberian Peninsula, including Seville, in the 8th century. During Islamic rule, much building took place, including the magnificent Alcazar, which can be visited today.

Royal Alcázar of Seville (photo: Brent Petersen)

Christian armies defeated the Muslims in 1248, bringing to an end over 500 years of Islamic rule. The fanciful Seville Cathedral was built, incorporating many Mudejar (Muslim) design elements.

Seville Cathedral (photo: Brent Petersen)

In 1478, the Spanish Inquisition came to Seville and people suspected of secretly being Jewish or Muslim were persecuted, tried, and often tortured and killed. Burning people alive was a common punishment. The Museo Del Castillo De San Jorge now houses the Spanish Inquisition Museum.

After the initial exploration and exploitation of the New World by the Spanish, Seville was responsible to collecting taxes related to this money making enterprise. The city grew incredibly wealthy by collecting taxes and overseeing almost all the trade to and from the New World.

Foodie Seville

Tapas

There are great tapas bars all over Spain, all over the world, really. But, Andalucía is generally regarded as the birthplace of tapas. And, Seville, in my mind, has the best tapas culture.

The story goes that in nearby Cadiz, a windy place on the Atlantic, bartenders began placing a slice of cured meat on top of glasses of Sherry to keep sand out of drink. By giving their customers a salty treat, the bar sold more drinks!

Delicious briney olives make you thirsty (photo: Brent Petersen)

This topping (Tapa in Spanish) on the glass became popular when King Alfonso XIII (1886-1941) was supposedly passing through Cadiz and was served his drink with a slice of Jamon (cured pork) on top of his glass. After that, King Alf, ordered another glass “con la tapa,” or with “with the top.”

There is another story that many Tapa are pork-based in order to aid the Spanish Inquisition.

In the late 15th century, Jews and Muslims were forced to convert to Christianity or leave Spain. These so-called conversos (converted) would be offered Tapas and if they took a snack without pork it was used as evidence that they were still practicing their outlawed religion. Surely a very dark time in Spanish history. 

Where to get Tapas in Seville

There are so many amazing Tapas bars in Seville, it would be impossible to visit them all. My friend Pilar, who has lived in Seville all her life told me that she is still discovering new places, even after all these years. So, the following list is by no means exhaustive, but it does represent my favorites; a mix of traditional and modern tapas places in Seville.

Las Golondrinas
Marinated carrots and olives at Las Golondrinas (photo: Brent Petersen)

Las Golondrinas is first on the list because it’s my favorite tapas bar in Seville. Busy and loud, Las Golondrinas has some good wine and excellent tapas. I really like the stuffed mushrooms, but the best is the marinated veggies, served from a display case on the bar. Seville is known for its marinated vegetables, especially the carrots, and you should definitely seek them out!

El Rinconcillo
El Rinconcillo (video: Brent Petersen)

The oldest of old school tapas joints in Seville, El Rinconcillo has been around for 350 years! Their egg dishes like Revueltos and Tortilla are especially good. The well-dressed waiter will write your bill on the bar in chalk as you order, adding it up when you’re ready to pay. Delightful!

Bill paid in full at El Rinconcillo (photo: Brent Petersen)
Espacio Eslava

While Seville is filled with traditional tapas bars, there’s also several great spots where they are experimenting with new and modern tapas. Espacio Eslava is bright and sleek with an excellent wine selection. They offer excellent tapas including a dish of egg yolk topped with grated truffle perched on a mushroom puree. Highly recommended!

Egg, mushroom, and truffle tapa (photo: Brent Petersen)
La Brunilda

La Brunilda is another modern spot for tapas. Salmorejo is a traditional tomato, garlic, and bread soup (served cold) from nearby Cordoba. La Brunilda has created their own version of Salmorejo using beets rather than tomato and upscaling it by serving the soup in a martini glass topped with micro greens.

Beet Salmorejo at La Brunilda (photo: Brent Petersen)
La Bartola

Another modern tapas place, La Bartola, makes an outstanding Caponata (Sicilian eggplant stew). Their stuffed zucchini topped with tomato sauce is also outstanding.

Enjoying Caponata at La Bartola (photo: Karen L. Campopiano)
Bodega Santa Cruz

Bodega Santa Cruz is a busy tapas bar near the Cathedral. They serve a nice tortilla (similar to a frittata) but you’re really here for the lively atmosphere. Bartenders playfully yell at eachother while orders come out fast and furious.

Bodega Santa Cruz (photo: Brent Petersen)
Casa Román

Casa Román is one of the stalwarts of Seville. It’s been around for over 150 years, first as a grocery store, then as an inn, but always with great food. Tortillas (frittata) in Spain are often huge, several inches high, as big as a birthday cake. Slices of room temperature tortilla are cut and served as customers order.

At Casa Román, however, they make Tortillas to order, in single serving size. Hot from the kitchen, this is one of my favorite places in Spain to get a Tortilla.

Tortilla at Casa Román (photo: Brent Petersen)
Bodeguita Romero

Super busy tapas place near the Cathedral. Get ready to muscle your way to the bar to order and be aggressive to get a seat. You can sit at a table, but waits can be long. It’s worth the wait for a nice glass of wine and the delicious Papas Aliñás (marinated potatoes).

Busy Bodeguita Romero (photo: Brent Petersen)

Convent Sweets

The Convento San Leandro was first built in the 14th century. The current convent is from the 17th century with renovations in the 19th century. While the church itself is interesting, the real attraction is the convent itself.

Cloistered nuns at the convent make sweets called Yemas de San Leandro. These little cone-shaped pastries are made with egg yolks and covered in a sugar frosting. They’re very, very sweet. You can get them served simply in a paper bag (de papel) or in a wooden box (caja de madera).

Trying the Yemas de San Leandro (photo: Karen L. Campopiano)

The hermitic nuns also make a little fried dough treat called Pestinos de San Augustin and a muffin called Magdalenas de Santa Rita.

Because the nuns are cloistered, you never get to see them. Instead, you ring a bell at the convent and give your order. Then, you put your money on a lazy Susan and rotate it. The nun on the other side takes your money and puts your order and your change on the shelf and rotates it back to you. Your pastries appear as if by magic.

Low tech ordering kiosk at Convento San Leandro (photo: Brent Petersen)

I like sweets, but even for me the Yemas were too sweet. I could only finish one tiny pastry. Next time I think I’ll be getting the Magdalena. But, the experience is quite unique and not to be missed.

Mercado de Triana

Before the Puente de Isabel II (Triana Bridge) was built, the Triana neighborhood was isolated from the rest of Seville. To serve the people of Triana, a market was built, but it was poorly organized and unsanitary.

So, in 1822, the city decided to build a new market on the ruins of the Castle of San Jorge. The market was rebuilt in 1987 on the same location with extensive renovations in 2001.

There’s a ton of produce and market stalls along with casual restaurants, bakeries, gift shops, and a cooking school.

Produce vendor at Mercado de Triana (photo: Brent Petersen)

The market is a great spot to sit and have a beer and a tapa. Or, you can grab some provisions and head over the bridge to the Chapina Garden, it’s only a 10 minute walk. As I always say on my podcast, “When you visit a new city, go to the market!”

Vegetarian/Vegan Seville

Let’s face it, being vegetarian or vegan in Spain can be challenging. Meat, especially pork, is a huge part of the Spanish diet and Jamon is, it seems, ever present.

However, several Tapa are good for vegetarians. Tortilla (make sure there’s no pork) is a good choice. Stuffed Mushrooms can be good as long as there’s no chorizo. And, many Tapas bars have a selection of marinated vegetables on the counter. Many Tapas bars will indicate which choices are plant-based and some are even adding a dedicated veg. section to their menus.

If you’re looking for strictly vegetarian or vegan dining, the choices are expanding in Seville.

La Vegana is a vegan restaurant that has brunch-type items. Their cakes are especially good, as well.

Bowl at La Vagana (photo: Brent Petersen)

Veganitessen is an all-vegan deli in the Mercado del Arenal. Cool atmosphere with lots of “veganized” traditional Spanish dishes and comfort food.

Photo: Brent Petersen

Verdetariano Healthy Food is a vegetarian and vegan cafe with lots of fresh salads, quiche, and stews. .

Thank you Mother is a casual vegetarian restaurant with burgers, bowls, and brunch items like pancakes.

Drinking in Seville

Orange Wine

Stroll around Seville and you’re sure to see lots and lots of orange trees. They’re everywhere! But, you don’t want to eat their fruit. The oranges are extremely bitter.

Some of Seville’s famous orange trees (photo: Brent Petersen)

Instead, they’re used to make marmalade and Vino de Naranja (Orange Wine).

Oloroso Sherry is the base for Vino de Naranja. The dark and flavorful, Oloroso gets its color from exposure to oxygen and the long aging process in oak barrels. Once made, orange peel from the bitter Seville oranges is added to the Oloroso and aged an additional 18 months.

Vino de Naranja is rather sweet and almost syrupy, but delightful to sip and enjoy in a Seville tapas bar.

Taberna Álvaro Peregil is a characteristic tapas joint that was owned by a local singer. His picture is on the wall of this super tiny bar along with a sign that says (in Spanish) “No Singing.” Someone cheekily scrawled on the wall next to the sign “Badly.”

No singing badly (photo: Brent Petersen)

This bar is the best for getting our Vino de Naranja. Word is they buy from one of the oldest and best producers of Vino de Naranja in the region.

Order a Vino de Naranja and they’ll pour it from a pitcher for you. Enjoy a glass and maybe an artichoke tapa but hold on tight to your glass because in this tiny place it’s easy to get jostled.

Pouring Orange Wine at Taberna Álvaro Peregil (photo: Brent Petersen)

If you’re more into comfort, go next door. The larger space is also run by the same folks.

Or, give Bar Santa Ana a try. It’s a busy tapas bar filled with locals. They have Tapas to go with your Orange Wine.

Sherry

Sherry is a fortified wine made by adding a spirit of distilled grapes to the fermented wine. Sherry comes in several varieties including dry and sweet. The color can range from straw with a golden tint (Fino) to a darker caramel color (Oloroso). Alcohol content also varies from 15-22% ABV.

Seville is just a short hop from Spain’s Sherry Triangle, where all the world’s sherry is produced. Because of this close proximity, sherry is very popular in Seville.

Almost any tapas bar in Seville will be serving sherry but El Rinconcillo is the oldest in the city (circa 1670!) and has a fine selection. Casa Morales started as a wine shop in 1850 and is now one of the most famous tapas bars in Seville. They have good sherry to pair with their little plates. Las Teresas is another excellent choice for sherry and tapas.

But, my favorite spot for a sherry might be Taberna Manolo Cateca. It’s a traditional spot with a narrow bar and a little outdoor seating. Great atmosphere and a good selection of Sherry.

Sampling Sherry at Taberna Manolo Cateca(photo: Brent Petersen)

Vermouth

Vermouth is an aromatic fortified wine. It starts with a distilled spirit and then botanicals like cloves, cinnamon, and orange peel are added to a basic wine and allowed to age.

Today, Vermouth is mostly known as an ingredient in cocktails like a martini. But, in much of Spain, Vermouth is becoming a hip drink with young people. Many bars have their own Vermouth recipes and you can get unique flavors like jalapeno Vermouth.

El Rinconcillo and Casa Morales (see above) are places to get a nice Vermouth. I also like Los Claveles for Vermouth.

Vermouth at Los Claveles (photo: Brent Petersen)

Things to do in Seville

Plaza de España

The Plaza de España looks like a classic Spanish square that could’ve been built in the 17th century. And that’s by design. But, it’s actually of a much more recent vintage.

As part of the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition (World’s Fair), the buildings and open space at the Plaza de España were meant to showcase Spanish culture heritage. That’s why there’s a mix of Art Deco, Baroque, and Renaissance structures.

Alcove representing the Province of Malaga (photo: Brent Petersen)

Overlooking the square is the impressive pavilion buildings, arranged in a semi-circle that today houses several government offices. In front is a series of alcoves, each representing a province of Spain with a unique tile mural. These are especially popular with Spaniards who pose in front of the alcove for their home province.

Plaza at sunrise (photo: Brent Petersen)

I especially like the bridges that cross the canals in the plaza. They are ornately decorated with ceramic tiles boasting colorful and enchanting designs. Nearby, several benches are also decorated in magnificent tiles.

One of the Plaza’s bridges (photo: Brent Petersen)

In the afternoon, the Plaza de España is filled with visitors enjoying the space, paddling boats in the small canal, or taking a carriage ride. There are often many performers, including flamenco artists, as well.

Horse carriage at the Plaza (photo: Brent Petersen)

But, my favorite time to come to the plaza is first thing in the morning. It’s often deserted and you can watch the sunrise over the square pretty much by yourself.

The Plaza de España is inside the Maria Luisa Park, a peaceful spot with lots of walking paths, places to sit and gardens. If you’re there around lunchtime, it’s a great place to bring a picnic.

Catedral de Santa María de la Sede (Seville Cathedral)

I get it, church fatigue is real. It seems every city in Europe has a “must visit” church or cathedral. But, the Seville Cathedral is definitely a “can’t miss” attraction.

Seville Cathedral (photo: Brent Petersen)

Like many churches in Spain, the Seville Cathedral was originally a mosque, built 750 years ago during the Almohad Caliphate. After the Reconquista, the mosque was converted to a church.

Reconstruction, rehabilitation, and expansions continued for several centuries including a major rebuild when the dome collapsed in 1888 due to an earthquake. However, the Gothic façade remains the most recognizable element of the cathedral.

After initial construction in the early 16th century, the Seville Cathedral was the largest church in the world. It remains the world’s largest Gothic church and the 4th largest church in the world.

Inside the cathedral are 80 chapels, each ornately decorated. I was blown away by the amount of intricate woodwork and artwork in the cathedral. One of the most magnificent is Pierre Dancart’s masterpiece, a massive and intricately carved alter.

Alter by Pierre Dancart (photo: Brent Petersen)

The bell tower (La Giralda) is almost 350 feet tall and is said to have originally been a minaret for the mosque. Climbing to the top by ramps rather than stairs (there are a few stairs at the end) gives way to unforgettable views of the city. Not to be missed.

View of Seville from the bell tower (photo: Brent Petersen)
Remains of Christopher Columbus

Explorer, slave trade, and perpetuator of genocide, Christopher Columbus died in Valladolid, Spain in 1506. He was initially buried at the Chapel of Wonders at the Convent of St. Francis, Valladolid, but Columbus was almost as well traveled in death as he was when alive.

In 1513, Columbus was exhumed by order of his son Diego and his remains were moved to the Seville Cathedral. Then, in 1536, Columbus and the body of his son were again moved, this time across the ocean to the Dominican Republic. Later, they were interred in Havana, Cuba. It was only in 1898, after the Spanish-American War, that Columbus’ corpse was moved back to the Seville Cathedral.

Columbus’ final resting place? (photo: Brent Petersen)

In 2003, following questions surrounding the authenticity of the the bones in the box, DNA samples were tested. Initially, there was some debate as to whether the body was actually that of Columbus. But, final DNA and historic analysis have led researchers to conclude that Columbus’ carcass is in the casket in the Seville Cathedral.

The debate doesn’t end there, however. In 1877, a worker in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic found a lead casket with an inscription saying “The illustrious and excellent man, Don Colon, Admiral of the Ocean Sea.” This led them to believe the explorer’s remains were inside. However, Columbus’ son was also known as Don Colon and no DNA analysis was conducted to determine whose body it is. Still, that hasn’t prevented Santo Domingo from constructing a giant building called the Columbus Lighthouse to house what may or may not be his remains.

Royal Alcázar of Seville

In the 8th century CE, the Umayyad Caliphate invaded the Iberian Peninsula and defeated the Visigoth’s in quick succession. The Muslim rulers set out to build fortresses, cities, and mosques in all their newly conquered lands.

Royal Alcázar of Seville (photo: Brent Petersen)

Many of these fortresses were built on top of, or to replace, old Visigoth or Roman structures. The Royal Alcázar of Seville, began in the 10th century, was one such building, taking the place of a Visigoth stronghold.

The Alcázar was expanded greatly over the centuries until Seville was reconquered by Ferdinand III in 1248. Then, the Christians set about building a new palace. But, much of the Islamic architectural style remained as the work was done by Mudéjar (Muslim) artisans.

Visiting the Alcázar is a can’t miss experience. The rooms are decorated with magnificent tile work, raised designs quite different from the normal blue and white ajulzo tiles. Especially evocative is the archway entrance to the Salón de los Embajadores (Hall of Ambassadors).

Royal Alcázar of Seville (photo: Brent Petersen)

Outside, the grounds are filled with courtyards, gardens, and fountains. It’s really quite stunning and worth at least a couple hours of your time.

One of the Alcázar’s gardens (photo: Brent Petersen)

Ceramics

Clay pots were made in Andalucía as far back as 4,000 years ago. Of course, the Romans were prolific potters, using vessels to store food and ferment wine.

But, when the Muslims arrived, they brought a much more artistic style to ceramic work. They also introduced the glazing that is so typical of Spanish ceramics.

Ceramica Ruiz (photo: Brent Petersen)

The Triana neighborhood is Seville is traditionally where ceramicists worked and lived. They created the tiles that decorate the building facades, interior walls, churches, and public spaces of the city. Many of the most popular designs are directly traceable to the Muslims who originally brought tile artistry to the Iberian Peninsula.

Though there are no longer any large commercial ceramics factories in Seville, many artisans still practice the trade. Their work can be found in some of the galleries and shops in Triana. Ceramica Triana and Ceramica RUIZ are both excellent stores where fine ceramics are for sale.

Photo: Brent Petersen

For an even deeper dive, Centro Cerámica Triana is a museum dedicated to ceramics in Seville.

Hospital de los Venerables

In the 17th century, the catholic church decided it needed to provide assistance to elderly and sick priests, so the baroque Hospital de los Venerables was constructed. It housed priests in need until the 1970’s.

Today, the building is home to the Velázquez Center, dedicated to painter Diego Velázquez. Several hospital rooms have been renovated into an exhibition space where you can see works by Velázquez including his masterpiece, Santa Rufina.

The courtyard and cloister is especially beautiful. Several reproductions of master works are hung outside including The Immaculate Conception of Los Venerables by Bartolomé Esteban Murillo. The originals hang in Madrid’s Prado museum.

The Hospital’s cloister (photo: Brent Petersen)

Adjacent to the cloister is the hospital’s chapel. It’s decorated with stunning frescoes.

Velázquez

Diego Velázquez was a master painter born in Seville. His baroque works are considered some of the best of the 17th century and his technique of contrasting light and dark has influenced artists like Picasso, Dali, and Bacon.

I have a special affinity for Velázquez because many of his paintings have food and drink as a subject. His first masterpiece, completed when he was still a teenager, Old Woman Cooking Eggs (National Galleries, Scotland) shows a scene of everyday people that the artist would revisit numerous times during his career.

An Old Woman Cooking Eggs (National Galleries Scotland)

Many of Velázquez’s best known works like Las Meninas and The Adoration of the Magi hang in the Prado Museum in Madrid.

But, fans of Velázquez have plenty to see in Seville. Of course, there’s the Velázquez Center in the Hospital de los Venerables (see above) where Santa Rufina and other paintings are displayed.

Santa Rufina (photo: Brent Petersen)

Diego Velázquez was born in Seville (probably in 1599, the year he was baptized). The house where he was born is being renovated and will hopefully be turned into a museum at some point.

Birthplace of Velázquez (photo: Brent Petersen)

Parroquia de San Pedro Apóstol is the church where baby Diego was baptized. Inside there is small memorial commemorating the artist’s baptizm.

Standing in the middle of Seville’s Plaza del Duque is a statue of Velázquez, high on a pedestal. If his pose looks familiar, that’s because the sculptor Antonio Susillo used Velázquez’s self portrait in Las Meninas as inspiration.

The Seville Museum of Fine Arts is a large and important museum. Two works from Velázquez are on display. Cabeza de apóstol (on loan from the Prado) and Don Cristobal Suarez de Ribera.

Opera

More operas are set in Seville than any other city. Famous works like The Marriage of Figaro (Moazrt), Carmen (Bizet), and, of course, The Barber of Seville (Rossini) all take place in the city. There’s even a statue of Mozart in the city.

Perhaps the most beloved of all these operas is Carmen. Unfortunately for Bizet, the opera was not well received initially and he died shortly after it premiered, never seeing it reach worldwide acclaim.

The most shocking scene, Carmen’s murder, takes place outside the Seville bull ring. You can visit this place where the barbaric “sport” of bullfighting is still practiced in all its bloody decadence.

I don’t think it’s any coincidence that Carmen is murdered with a knife outside a bull ring. A female prostitute factory worker was likely considered to have the same status as an animal in 19th century Spain and Carmen’s fate, stabbed to death in cold blood, mirrored that of the bull.

If you want to see an opera while in Seville, the Teatro de la Maestranza has regular performances.

Castillo de San Jorge

Originally built as a fortress on the riverfront by the Visigoths, it was also used by the Islamic caliphate that ruled most of Spain for over 500 years.

Later, after the Christian reconquest, the castle fell into disuse, that is, until the Spanish Inquisition took hold in the late 15th century. The castle was used as a headquarters for the inquisition and a prison for almost 150 years.

After that, it again fell into disrepair, was deeded back to the city and demolished in the early 19th century to make room for the Mercado de Triana.

In recent decades the castle has been excavated and archeologists have discovered many interesting artifacts. Today, the castle has been reborn as a museum and interpretation for the history and atrocities of the Spanish Inquisition.

Day Trips from Seville

Seville is the capital of Andalusia and is well connected to the rest of the country, so day trips are quite easy. You can even get to Madrid by high speed train in 2 ½ hours.

Jerez

Jerez is part of the Sherry Triangle, the region where all authentic Sherry is produced. Jerez is home to the characteristic Tabanco bars where you can get a glass of sherry, a snack, and often, a Flamenco show.

Jerez is an easy train ride from Seville

El Puerto de Santa María

El Puerto de Santa María is another city in the Sherry Triangle of Spain. There are several bodegas you can visit to see how Sherry is produced and there’s also lots of good tapas joints. The nearby beaches are gorgeous, too.

Cadiz

Cadiz is a lovely peninsula just past El Puerto de Santa María. A stunning cathedral, beautiful beaches and excellent tapas await.

Cordoba

Cordoba is a can’t miss destination. It’s an easy train ride (40 minutes if you take the high speed) from Seville. The Mosque-Cathedral, Alcazar, and Synagogue are some of the attractions to see. Plus, there’s excellent tapas as well as cuisine influenced by Jewish and north African cultures.

Madrid

Madrid isn’t a daytrip, per se, but it’s easy to get from Seville to Madrid by high speed train. From the tapas to vermouth it’s foodie heaven in Madrid. There’s also some of the best art museums in the world.

Transportation

Seville is well connected to Andalucía, Spain and the rest of Europe by plane, bus, and train as well as by highway.

Train

If you’re coming from Madrid, the best way to get to Seville is by high speed train. It only takes about 2 ½ hours. Or, if you’re coming from somewhere else in southern Spain, the train is also your best option.

You’ll likely arrive at the Santa Justa station. From the station you can catch a bus to the historic center of Seville. Alternatively, it’s about a 20 minute walk.

Seville Airport (SVQ)

Seville Airport has flights to most of Europe and parts of northern Africa. There are no direct flights to North or South America.

Ground Transportation

There is a bus that runs from the airport to the Santa Justa train station and the Plaza de Armas bus station as well as other stops, It takes a little over 30 minutes. The only problem is that there is only one route, so hopefully the bus stops near your destination. Taxi and Uber are also available.

Public Transportation

Seville is a walkable city and most of the attractions you’ll want to see are within walking distance. There is reliable bus and tram service in the city. There’s also a single metro line but it mostly serves Seville’s suburbs.

Index of Food & Drink in Seville

Taberna Álvaro Peregil

Tiny tapas bar with orange wine.

C. Mateos Gago, 22, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

Las Golondrinas

Tapas bar with delicious marinated carrots.

C. Antillano Campos, 26, 41010 Sevilla, Spain

Las Teresas

Old school bar with outstanding tapas.

C. Sta. Teresa, 2, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

Espacio Eslava

Excellent tapas bar.

C. Eslava, 3, Casco Antiguo, 41002 Sevilla, Spain

La Vegana

Vegan restaurant with excellent cakes, too.

C. Salado, 11, Local 17, 41010 Sevilla, Spain

Bar Santa Ana

Old school tapas bar with orange wine.

C. Pureza, 82, 41010 Sevilla, Spain

Los Claveles

Tapas bar with nice vermouth.

C. Capataz Manuel Santiago, 1, 41003 Sevilla, Spain

Un Gato en Bicicleta

Hip coffee bar with artwork for sale.

C. Pérez Galdós, 22, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

Veganitessen

Vegan deli in the Mercado del Arenal

Mercado del Arenal, C. Pastor y Landero, S/N, 41001 Sevilla, Spain

Convento De San Leandro

Buy Yemas (sweets) from cloistered nuns.

Pl. San Ildefonso, 1, Casco Antiguo, 41003 Sevilla, Spain

Vegan Rock

Rock and roll themed vegan restaurant.

C. Rockero Silvio, 41011 Sevilla, Spain

Casa Román

Tapas bar in Santa Cruz neighborhood has been around since 1868.

Pl. Venerables, 1, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

El Rinconcillo

Oldest bar in Seville (1670)

C. Gerona, 40, 41003 Sevilla, Spain

Oveajas Negras Tapas

Innovative, modern tapas.

C. Hernando Colón, 8, Casco Antiguo, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

Casa Morales

Famous tapas bar.

C. García de Vinuesa, 11, 41001 Sevilla, Spain

Ajo&Agua

Cool bar.

C. Boteros, 28, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

Bodega Palo Santo

Tapas joint.

Pl. de la Gavidia, 5, Casco Antiguo, 41002 Sevilla, Spain

Bodeguita Romero

Busy tapas bar.

C. Harinas, 10, Casco Antiguo, 41001 Sevilla, Spain

Bodega Santa Cruz

Busy tapas restaurant.

C. Rodrigo Caro, 1, Casco Antiguo, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

Bodega dos de Mayo

Excellent tapas bar with good wine list.

Pl. de la Gavidia, 6, Casco Antiguo, 41002 Sevilla, Spain

Duo tapas

Tapas bar, reservations recommended.

C. Calatrava, 10, Casco Antiguo, 41002 Sevilla, Spain

La Bartola

Tapas bar with lots of vegetarian and vegan options.

C. San José, 24, Casco Antiguo, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

Taberna Manolo Cateca 

Excellent Sherry bar.

C. Sta. María de Gracia, 13, Casco Antiguo, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

El Pantera de San Lorenzo 

Stylish, yet traditional tapas bar.

C. Eslava, 5, Casco Antiguo, 41002 Sevilla, Spain

Verdetariano Healthy Food

Vegan cafe.

Ctra. de Carmona, n° 10, local 3, 41008 Sevilla, Spain

Billy Brunch Sevilla

Trendy breakfast/lunch spot

C. Pedro del Toro, 12, Casco Antiguo, 41001 Sevilla, Spain

Biomio organic breakfast & brunch

Organic ingredients with several vegan options.

C. Mateos Gago, 9B, Casco Antiguo, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

Thank You Mother 

Vegetarian restaurant.

Av. de la Filosofía, 40-44, 41927 Mairena del Aljarafe, Sevilla

La Brunilda

Excellent tapas including beet slamorejo.

C. Galera, 5, Casco Antiguo, 41002 Sevilla, Spain

Palo Cortao

Modern tapas with a wide selection of Sherry.

C. Mercedes de Velilla, 4, Casco Antiguo, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

Vinoteca Lama La Uva

Well curated wine bar with lesser known choices.

C. Regina, 1, Local 4, Casco Antiguo, 41003 Sevilla, Spain

Bar Ratón

Unassuming locals bar.

C. Monsalves, 3, Casco Antiguo, 41001 Sevilla, Spain

Index of Things to do in Seville

Royal Alcázar of Seville

Royal palace with beautiful gardens.

Patio de Banderas, s/n, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

Catedral de Sevilla

Massive Gothic cathedral that contains the tomb of Cristobal Colon (supposedly).

Av. de la Constitución, s/n, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

Plaza de España

Gorgeous plaza built for the 1929 Exposition.

Av. Isabel la Católica, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

Hospital de los Venerables

Museum with several works by Spanish master Diego Velázquez.

Pl. Venerables, 8, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

Setas de Sevilla

aka “The Mushroom,” this is the largest wooden structure wooden structure in the world.

Pl. de la Encarnación, s/n, 41003 Sevilla, Spain

Church of Santa Catalina

14th century church.

C. Alhondiga, s/n, 41003 Sevilla, Spain

Iglesia de San Ildefonso

Neoclassical church.

C. Rodríguez Marín, 2, Casco Antiguo, 41003 Sevilla, Spain

Casa de la Guitarra

Flamenco Theater,

C. Mesón del Moro, 12, 41004 Sevilla, Spain

Torre del Ore (Golden Tower)

12th century Moorish tower.

P.º de Cristóbal Colón, s/n, 41001 Sevilla, Spain

Parque María Luisa

Huge park next to Plaza de España.

41013 Seville, Spain

Jardín Americano

Park with a bunch of American species of plants.

41092 Seville, Spain

Casa de Pilatos

16th century palace with a huge collection of azulejo tile works.

Pl. de Pilatos, 1, Casco Antiguo, 41003 Sevilla, Spain

Museo de Bellas Artes de Sevilla

17th century palace displaying works by Velázquez, El Greco, Murillo, and Zubaran.

Pl. del Museo, 9, Casco Antiguo, 41001 Sevilla, Spain

Teatro de la Maestranza

Seville’s opera house.

P.º de Cristóbal Colón, 22, Casco Antiguo, 41001 Sevilla, Spain

Museo Del Castillo De San Jorge

Castle now houses the Spanish Inquisition Museum.

Pl. del Altozano, s/n, 41001 Sevilla, Spain

Centro Cerámica Triana

Ceramics museum. Free entrance with Alcazar ticket.

C. Callao, 16, 41010 Sevilla, Spain

Index of Shopping in Seville

Ceramica Triana

Large ceramics shop with excellent items for sale.

C. Callao, 14, 41010 Sevilla, Spain

Ceramica RUIZ

Store with beautiful ceramics.

C. San Jorge, 27, 41010 Sevilla, Spain

Mercado de Triana

Large covered market.

C. San Jorge, 6, 41010 Sevilla, Spain

Mercado del Arenal

Smaller covered market.

C. Pastor y Landero, 4, 41001 Sevilla, Spain

Red Verde

Organic grocery store.

San Luis, 46, Casco Antiguo, 41003 Sevilla, Spain 

Casa Moreno

Part grocery store, part tapas bar.

C. Gamazo, 7, 41001 Sevilla, Spain

Mercadillo Historico del Jueves

Quirky flea market held every Thursday.

C. Feria, 109, Casco Antiguo, 41002 Sevilla, Spain

Index of Places to Stay in Seville

Hotel Eurostars Regina

3 star hotel near some great tapas joints.

C. San Vicente, 97, Casco Antiguo, 41002 Sevilla, Spain

About the Author

Brent Petersen is the Editor-in-Chief of Destination Eat Drink. He currently resides in Setubal, Portugal. Brent has written the novel “Truffle Hunt” (Eckhartz Press) and the short story collection “That Bird.” He’s also written dozens of foodie travel guides to cities around the world on Destination Eat Drink, including in-depth eating and drinking guides to Madrid and Puerto de Santa Maria & The Sherry Triangle in Spain. Brent’s podcast, also called Destination Eat Drink, is available on all major podcasting platforms and is distributed by the Radio Misfits Podcast Network.