If Modena is known for one thing (besides being the hometown of local hero Luciano Pavarotti), it’s for the sweet nectar called Balsamic Vinegar of Modena.
While cooked vinegars made from grape must were known in Roman times, the center of the true Balsamic universe is Modena. Here, vinegar production was codified in the 13th century. The vinegar was finally called Balsamic in 1747 under the Court of Este in Modena. In 2009, Balsamic Vinegar of Modena received PGI protection from the EU, meaning only Balsamic made in the particular regions of Modena and Reggio Emilia under a set of controls and ingredients could be legally called Balsamic Vinegar of Modena.
True Balsamic (not the garbage sold in the grocery store for $3) is made by cooking and/or fermenting grape must (grape juice, seeds, and stems). Wine vinegar is added and the liquid is aged in barrels (chestnut, cherry, oak, and other woods), moving to smaller and smaller barrels as some of the thick vinegar evaporates.
Labeling of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena is very important. Some are aged for 3 years, others for 10, 25, or longer.
The most respected producer is Guisti. They’ve been in business since 1605! Originally making Balsamic in wooden barrels in their attic, today Guisti sells their black gold all over the world.
Just a 15 minute drive (30 minutes by bus) from Modena is Casa Giusti, a complex of buildings where the hundreds of barrels of Balsamic are aged. There is a museum on site and you take a tour and taste the exquisite vinegars for yourself.
Or, visit the tasting room in Modena, right across from the cathedral on Piazza Grande. The employees are very friendly and knowledgeable, eager to let you sample all kinds of aged Balsamic Vinegar of Modena. Just a drop is all you need for an explosion of flavor. An essential experience in Modena!
Of course, you can purchase bottles of the stuff to take home. Just be aware that some can run thousands of euros!
Getting to Modena, Italy
The closest airport to Modena is Bologna (BLQ). It’s a quick ride (less than 10 minutes) from the airport to Bologna Centrale station. Frequent trains from Bologna Centrale reach Modena in 20 minutes.
There’s also a shuttle that goes directly from the airport to several stops in Modena. The trip takes 45-60 minutes depending on where you are going in Modena. The shuttle is quite a bit more expensive than the train, but might be more convenient, especially if you’re traveling with a lot of luggage.
Driving will take about 35 minutes.
Alternatively, if you’re in Milan, the train to Modena takes less than 90 minutes. Driving adds 20 minutes to the trip.
About the Author
Brent Petersen is the Editor-in-Chief of Destination Eat Drink. He currently resides in Setubal, Portugal. Brent has written the novel “Truffle Hunt” (Eckhartz Press) and the short story collection “That Bird.” He’s also written dozens of foodie travel guides on Destination Eat Drink, including several in Italy,. Brent’s podcast, also called Destination Eat Drink, is available on all major podcasting platforms and is distributed by the Radio Misfits Podcast Network.