Flatbreads called Crescentina can be found all over Emilia-Romagna. The thing is, they differ widely throughout E-R in the shape and the way the Crescentina is served.
In Modena, there are two main types; Crescentina Modenese and Gnocco Frito.
Crescentina Modenese (Tigelle)
Crescentina Modenese is filling and portable, making it the perfect way for farmers and shepherds to get calories back in the day.
Traditionally, a simple dough of flour, water, salt, yeast, and lard was rolled into small balls. These dough balls, after resting, were flattened into a greased pan called a Tigelle and baked.
The Tigelle resembles a waffle iron with patterns that give the bread a distinct design. These designs could be unique to the family or restaurant that made the Crescentina Modenese.
I guess you could serve the Crescentina Modenese, often called Tigelle locally, by itself and be done with it, but where’s the fun in that? Cured meats, cheeses, savory spreads, and jams are often served with bread.
Trattoria Madonnina has been around for over 200 years in one form or another. Owned by the same family for the last 50 years, their Tigelle has a pleasing star design.
My friends at Taste Bologna, who know everything about the cuisine of Emilia-Romagna, recommend the unassuming food stall Insolito Bar in the Enzo Ferrari Park
Gnocco Fritto
Using basically the same ingredients as Crescentina Modenese, the dough for Gnocco Fritto is instead flattened into a rectangle and fried in lard, causing the bread to puff up. The Gnocco Fritto is served hot, often accompanied by cured meats.
My friend and New York Times bestselling author Katie Parla recommends Hosteria Giusti for Gnocco Fritto. The restaurant (there’s also an attached deli) is small, so reservations are a must.
Getting to Modena
The closest airport to Modena is Bologna (BLQ). It’s a quick ride (less than 10 minutes) from the airport to Bologna Centrale station. Frequent trains from Bologna Centrale reach Modena in 20 minutes.
There’s also a shuttle that goes directly from the airport to several stops in Modena. The trip takes 45-60 minutes depending on where you are going in Modena. The shuttle is quite a bit more expensive than the train, but might be more convenient, especially if you’re traveling with a lot of luggage.
Driving will take about 35 minutes.
Alternatively, if you’re in Milan, the train to Modena takes less than 90 minutes. Driving adds 20 minutes to the trip.
About the Author
Brent Petersen is the Editor-in-Chief of Destination Eat Drink. He currently resides in Setubal, Portugal. Brent has written the novel “Truffle Hunt” (Eckhartz Press) and the short story collection “That Bird.” He’s also written dozens of foodie travel guides on Destination Eat Drink, including several in Italy,. Brent’s podcast, also called Destination Eat Drink, is available on all major podcasting platforms and is distributed by the Radio Misfits Podcast Network.