Lisbon’s “Cold Greenhouse” Estufa Fria

Inside the Parque Eduardo VII is a massive greenhouse filled with tropical plants.

Passeio Público

The earthquake of 1755 leveled Lisbon. Much of what wasn’t brought down by quake was burned by the subsequent fire or washed away by a tsunami. Most of the second half of the 18th century was spent rebuilding Lisbon under the direction of Marquis of Pombal, the Prime Minister of Portugal appointed by the king.

While the Marquis certainly has a difficult legacy to say the least (he greatly expanded the African slave trade in Brazil), he also rebuilt Lisbon, a destroyed city.

One project was the Passeio Público which, despite its name, was not for the public at all. Instead, it was built for Pombal’s boss, the king, and his royal aristocracy.

In the late 19th century, the park was demolished to make way for the Avenida da Liberdade (Avenue of Liberty), perhaps the grandest thoroughfare in all of Portugal.

Parque Eduardo VII

To replace the lost greenspace of Passeio Público, a new park was built. Parque da Liberdade (Liberty Park) was renamed Parque Eduardo VII to commemorate the English king’s visit in 1903.

Parque Eduardo VII is a huge (26 acre) greenspace with a long strip of grass and manicured shrubbery with a long line of trees on either side. From the top of the park are terrific views down through Lisbon and to the river. The north end of Parque Eduardo VII is also where you can see a monument to the Carnation Revolution of 1974 when Portugal’s Estado Novo dictatorship was finally overthrown. This is also where the largest Portuguese flag is flown.

Estufa Fria

Inside the Parque Eduardo VII is the Estufa Fria (literally, cold greenhouse).

From the outside, Estufa Fria doesn’t look like much. But, as they say, looks can be deceiving. Inside there are three greenhouses under almost 4 acres.

One of these greenhouses is the eponymously named Estufa Fria. Called the cold greenhouse because it has no external heat source. Temperatures are regulated by the opening and closing of wooden slats.

A second greenhouse is called the Estufa Quente (hot greenhouse) and you can definitely feel the change in temperature as you walk from one greenhouse to the other. Here, more tropical plants like coffee and banana are grown.

The third greenhouse is the Estufa Doce (sweet greenhouse) where arid plants like cacti and aloe thrive.

Wandering the gardens is great way to relax and get away from the noise of Lisbon just outside the gate. It’s especially nice because the paths are dotted with sculptures, a delightful surprise when you come upon one in the garden.

Getting to the Estufa Fria

The garden is in the heart of Lisbon. It’s within easy walking distance of both the Parque and Marquês de Pombal metro stops.

Bring cash, foreign credit cards are not accepted at the ticket office.

About the Author

Brent Petersen is the Editor-in-Chief of Destination Eat Drink. He currently resides in Setubal, Portugal. Brent has written the novel “Truffle Hunt” (Eckhartz Press) and the short story collection “That Bird.” He’s also written dozens of foodie travel guides to cities around the world on Destination Eat Drink, including an in-depth eating and drinking guide to Portugal. Brent’s podcast, also called Destination Eat Drink, is available on all major podcasting platforms.