Salade Nicoise is more famous internationally, but, in my book, the one dish that defines Nice, France is Socca. Starting with the humble chickpea, the result is a pancake that’s crispy on the outside and soft on the inside with a savory, nutty flavor.
Read the entire Nice, France food & travel guide for more foodie stories and recommendations.
Socca origin story
There’s quite an entertaining story about the birth of Socca. The tale says that during the Siege of Nice in 1543, the Nicoise soldiers ran out of ammunition. So, they boiled chickpea flour in water and dumped it from high above the castle walls on the unsuspecting invaders below. After the battle was won, a victorious soldier tasted a bit of the weaponized chickpea batter and said “Hey, this is pretty tasty!” and Socca was born.
The truth is likely not such a “Eureka!” moment.
Chickpeas became part of the European diet when Crusaders returned from the Middle East with the legume. Genoa, Italy started making a flatbread, called Farinata, in the 15th century. At that time, Nice was part of the Royal House of Savoy which included Genoa. So, naturally, the chickpea migrated west to the Cote d’Azur and Nice.
The Nicoise put their own spin on Farinata, calling it Socca.
Socca became incredibly popular among the working class of Nice. It was sold from carts and stalls, served in a paper cone, and rarely topped with anything besides ground black pepper.
Where to get Socca in Nice, France
Today, Socca is as popular as ever. It is on menus at sit-down restaurants and sold from carts in the street as well as stalls at the market. A little sea salt, ground black pepper, and maybe some Rosemary (along with a bit of olive oil, of course) typically top the Socca. However, some places will add caramelized onions, anchovies, roasted veggies or other toppings.
You won’t have to look hard to find Socca. And, there are several excellent spots to get the snack.
My favorite Socca is served at Chez Pipo where they bake the chickpea batter in a 300 year-old oven. Chez Pipo is always busy, but they crank out the Socca hot and fast, so you probably won’t have to wait too long.
Chez Pipo also has Socca beer on the menu. That’s right, a beer made from chickpeas instead of wheat! And, it’s pretty good!
There’s a full menu at Chez Pipo filled with typical Nicoise snacks like Tourte de Blettes and Pissaladiere. Highly recommended!
Chez Theresa also has excellent Socca. They bake the Socca in a nearly 200 year-old wood fired oven at 28 Rue Droite. But, I prefer their pop-up at the Cours Saleya market.
A tricked out bicycle delivers the giant copper pans of Socca every few minutes. At the Chez Theresa market tent, a little oven keeps the chickpea pancakes warm while an employee slices and serves up Socca in paper cones. It is a Nice experience that is not to be missed!
Read the entire Nice, France food & travel guide for more foodie stories and recommendations.
How to get Nice
Nice Cote d’Azur Airport (NCE) has direct flights to most major cities in Europe as well several in North America, the Middle East, and northern Africa. A tram links the airport to the city center.
High speed trains connect Nice and Marseille (about 2.5 hours). A trip from Paris is almost 6 hours. However, this is expected to be reduced to under 4 hours when the LGV Provence-Alpes-Cote d’Azur line is completed (expected in 2035).
About the Author
Brent Petersen is the Editor-in-Chief of Destination Eat Drink. He currently resides in Setubal, Portugal. Brent has written the novel “Truffle Hunt” (Eckhartz Press) and the short story collection “That Bird.” He’s also written dozens of foodie travel guides to France, including one to Nice. Brent’s podcast, also called Destination Eat Drink, is available on all major podcasting platforms.