Portugal’s most secure prison was the site of one of the most daring prison escapes in the country’s history.
Peniche Fortress (Praça-forte de Peniche)
Peniche is a small city in the Oeste region of Portugal. Being on the Atlantic Ocean, Peniche was subject to attacks from pirates and other countries (mostly Spain). So, a system of forts was built up and down the coast.
Construction of the Peniche Fortress began in 1557 and was completed 13 years later. The fort proved effective until the Napoleonic invasion of 1807, when French troops occupied the fort and used it as a prison.
Today the fort is open and it’s quite interesting to gaze over the walls imaging pirates attacking the fort or prisoners inside, gazing out the windows at the sea, yearning to be free like the gulls who effortlessly glide by.
National Museum of Resistance and Freedom
One of the most somber sites in all of Portugal is the National Museum of Resistance and Freedom. Housed inside the Peniche Fortress, the museum is where the fascist Estado Novo (New State) held some of their political prisoners.
The former prison has been repurposed to educate people about the brutal conditions endured by political prisoners of the Portuguese fascist state. Insufficiently fed and provided only a bucket for toilet facilities, prisoners (mostly Communists, but also war protesters and other agitators) were often tortured. In isolation, prisoners created a rudimentary code of knocking on prison walls to communicate.
Even though the prison at Peniche Fortress was considered the most secure in the country, it didn’t stop prisoners from trying to escape.
On January 3rd, 1960, ten communists, with the aid of a disgruntled GNR (Portugal’s National Guard) officer, subdued the guard on duty with chloroform, scaled the prison wall and descended to the ground using bed sheets tied together. Once outside the prison, they got into waiting cars and were whisked away to safe houses. All this was in plain view of civilians sitting at a nearby cafe. So hated was the Estado Novo, that not one person at the cafe said a word as the men made their escape.
António de Oliveira Salazar (President of fascist Portugal) was incensed by this brazen escape. Reports on Portuguese media said that the men probably were aided by a Soviet submarine, though this was almost certainly untrue. In actuality, the men hid in a series of safe houses before making it out of the country.
One of the most prominent escapees was Álvaro Cunhal, a leader of the Portuguese Communist Party. He was imprisoned in 1937 for being a communist and activities attributed to the party and freed in 1938. Then, he was imprisoned again in 1949, where he was tortured and spent many years in isolation until his escape in 1960. Cunhal eventually made his way to Moscow and stayed in the Soviet Union until the Estado Novo was overthrown in 1974. He then returned to Portugal where he kept his position as the head of the Portuguese Communist Party.
José Jorge Alves was the GNR officer who assisted the men escape the notorious prison. He was upset at being passed over for a promotion and wanted revenge. After the prisoner escape, Alves fled to Romania with his family. Unfortunately, he descended into alcoholism and violence, hanging himself in 1968. Alves family returned to Lisbon where they were spurned by Cunhal who rejected their claims that he had promised to help them.
The museum itself is filled with evocative exhibits including the spartan jail cells themselves along with artifacts like an underground prisoner newspaper.
Getting to Peniche
Buses to Peniche regularly depart Lisbon’s Sete Rios station and take from 70 to 95 minutes depending on which one you take. The bus station is a short walk to the center of town. Be aware that if you take FlixBus, their schedule will not be displayed on the arrival/departure screens at the Peniche bus station.
Driving from Lisbon takes a little over an hour. There is no train service to Peniche.
About the Author
Brent Petersen is the Editor-in-Chief of Destination Eat Drink. He currently resides in Setubal, Portugal. Brent has written the novel “Truffle Hunt” (Eckhartz Press) and the short story collection “That Bird.” He’s also written dozens of foodie travel guides to cities around the world on Destination Eat Drink, including in-depth eating and drinking guides in Portugal. Brent’s podcast, also called Destination Eat Drink, is available on all major podcasting platforms.
