Unlike Malta’s other famous bread, Ftiria only takes 20 minutes to bake.
Malta’s incredible sourdough bread, Ftira, is traditionally made in a ring shape. Both Ftira and Tal-malti (Malta’s other bread staple) are made using the same ingredients: flour, yeast, water and salt. But Ftira is different in that it is baked in a wood fired oven at very hot temperatures. That means the loaf is done in just 20 minutes.
Sometimes, you’ll see Ftira baked into a large ring shape. But, these days, it often starts with a hole in the middle, but when the dough rises and the baking is complete, the hole is just a little dot in the middle of the bun. The high baking temperature means that the Ftira is flatter than most breads and has an open crumb.
Ftira is often served like a sandwich, filled with tuna, capers, and mint. But, the possibilities are endless. I like a stuffed sandwich with broad beans and veggies. Ftira cut lengthwise and topped with just crushed tomatoes is delightful as well.
In 2020, Malta’s ftiria was added to Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Making Ftira is hard work. Bakers have to get up very early to make the fresh bread for the day. And, they often work seven days a week. Family-run bakeries, some going back several generations, are at risk as younger people opt for jobs with less hard physical labor. Industrial mass-produced Ftira will always be around, but true artisan Ftira is at risk.
Gozitan Ftira
On the island of Gozo, Ftira Għawdxija (Ftira from Gozo) is more like a pizza. Baked in a wood fired oven and served with various toppings like anchovies or potato and cheese.
In the little village of Nadur, there’s a gem called Maxokk Bakery. Serving takeout only, two grandmas work the oven and churn out incredible pizza and Ftira Għawdxija. This is the spot if you want a true Gozitan experience.
About the Author
Brent Petersen is the Editor-in-Chief of Destination Eat Drink. He currently resides in Setubal, Portugal. Brent has written the novel “Truffle Hunt” (Eckhartz Press) and the short story collection “That Bird.” He’s also written dozens of foodie travel guides on Destination Eat Drink, including one for Malta,. Brent’s podcast, also called Destination Eat Drink, is available on all major podcasting platforms and is distributed by the Radio Misfits Podcast Network.
