Housed in a 16th century (or earlier) building, Os Infantes is a terrific place to get a glass of wine in the most charming setting in Beja.
Alentejo (the region where Beja is located) is the third biggest producer of wine in Portugal after Douro (for Port Wine) and Lisbon. Back in the day, Alentejo was known for bulk wine of low quality. Or, vineyards would produce juice that would be shipped to the more prestigious wine houses up north to be blended into more expensive bottles.
Recently, that has begun to change. While bulk wine still exists in Alentejo and the juice from some grapes like Castelão are shipped to the Douro Valley to be blended into award winning Ports, the wines of Alentejo itself are starting to come into their own.
Beja is a small city with a population of about 25,000 people. There are several good wineries nearby like Herdade dos Grous, Herdade da Mingorra, and Herdade do Vau.
But, there’s really not a wine bar with a good selection of glasses from local vineyards.
However, Os Infantes is a restaurant with incredible atmosphere and a nice house wine.
The building is from the 16th century, or maybe earlier, no one is sure, with thick walls and stone arches. Surprisingly, the place is decorated with eclectic pieces of art painted by the owner. He must be a big fan of Picasso.
One of the paintings, sort of a riff on the 3 Muses, is used as the artwork on the house wine’s label. I like sitting at the bar, chatting with the bartender, and sipping on this nice, tannic house wine while maybe munching on some local cheese.
But, if you want something of a better vintage, there’s a small wine cellar filled with dusty bottles.
Brent Petersen is the Editor-in-Chief of Destination Eat Drink. He currently resides in Setubal, Portugal. Brent has written the novel “Truffle Hunt” (Eckhartz Press) and the short story collection “That Bird.” He’s also written dozens of foodie travel guides to cities around the world on Destination Eat Drink, including in-depth eating and drinking guides in Portugal to Lisbon, Porto, Sintra, Évora, Monsaraz, and Batalha. Brent’s podcast, also called Destination Eat Drink, is available on all major podcasting platforms.
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